A suit is one of the most complex garments in your wardrobe. It is not just fabric. It is layers of construction: an outer shell, a lining, interfacing, canvas or fusible, shoulder pads, and structural stitching that creates the shape. Caring for a suit means caring for all of these layers simultaneously, which is why suits require different treatment than a sweater or a pair of jeans.

The reward for getting this right is significant. A well-maintained suit looks better at year five than a neglected one looks at year one. The fabric develops a refined drape, the construction holds its shape, and the surface maintains its finish. This guide covers everything from daily habits to seasonal storage.

Daily Habits

Hang It Properly

As soon as you take off your suit, hang it on a wide, contoured wooden or padded hanger. The hanger should follow the natural slope of the shoulders. Thin wire hangers from the dry cleaner create pressure points that distort the shoulder line over time. A good suit hanger is one of the cheapest investments in your wardrobe with the highest return.

Hang the jacket buttoned (one button on a two-button suit, middle button on a three-button) to maintain the front drape. Hang trousers from the cuff on a clamp hanger or fold them over a trouser bar along the crease line.

Let It Rest

Never wear the same suit two days in a row. Wool fibers need 24 to 48 hours to recover from the stress of wearing. During this rest period, the fibers release moisture from perspiration, relax from the tension of body movement, and return to their natural shape. Rotating between at least two suits (ideally three or more) extends the life of each suit dramatically.

Brush After Wearing

Use a natural bristle clothes brush (horsehair is the standard) to brush your suit after each wearing. Brush in the direction of the nap, working from the top of the jacket down and from the top of the trousers down. This removes surface dust, lint, and debris before they work their way into the fabric. It also lifts the fibers, preventing the flattened, shiny appearance that comes from neglect.

A good clothes brush costs $20 to $40 and lasts a lifetime. It is the single most effective daily care tool for a suit.

Empty the Pockets

Remove everything from your jacket and trouser pockets at the end of each day. Phones, wallets, keys, and even business cards create bulges that stretch the fabric and distort the pockets over time. A suit pocket should hold a pocket square and nothing else.

Cleaning

The most common mistake in suit care is cleaning too often. Every professional cleaning cycle, whether dry or wet, puts stress on the fabric and the construction. The goal is to clean your suit as infrequently as possible while keeping it fresh and presentable.

How Often to Clean

A suit worn once a week over a dress shirt can go 3 to 5 wears between professional cleanings. A suit worn less frequently can go even longer. The triggers for cleaning are visible stains, persistent odor, or a general heaviness in the fabric that brushing and airing cannot resolve.

Between cleanings, spot treat stains as they occur and use steam to refresh the fabric and release odors.

Dry Cleaning vs. Wet Cleaning

Traditional dry cleaning uses chemical solvents (typically perchloroethylene) that dissolve oil-based stains without water. It is the safest default for heavily structured suits, especially bespoke or canvassed construction where water could warp the internal layers.

Professional wet cleaning uses water and computer-controlled machines to clean more gently than home washing. It is better at removing perspiration and water-based stains. Many modern suits, particularly fused construction, can be wet cleaned successfully. Ask your cleaner which method they recommend for your specific suit.

Spot Cleaning at Home

For minor stains between professional cleanings, spot clean the affected area. Dampen a clean cloth with cold water and blot the stain gently. For oil-based spots, a tiny amount of club soda on a cloth can help. Always blot from the outside of the stain inward to prevent spreading. Let the area air dry completely.

Do not use household stain removers on suit fabric without testing in an inconspicuous area first. Many commercial products are too aggressive for fine wool and can damage the finish.

Pressing and Steaming

Steaming (Preferred)

A garment steamer is the best tool for maintaining a suit between cleanings. Steam relaxes wrinkles, refreshes the fabric, and kills bacteria that cause odor, all without direct contact that could damage the surface.

Hang the suit on a sturdy hanger. Hold the steamer head 2 to 3 inches from the fabric and work from top to bottom. Pay attention to the shoulders, lapels, and the area around the trouser crease. Let the suit hang for 10 to 15 minutes after steaming before wearing or storing.

Ironing (When Necessary)

If you need a crisper finish than steaming provides, iron with care. Always use a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth placed between the iron and the suit fabric) to prevent shine. Shine occurs when the iron compresses and flattens the surface fibers, creating a polished, reflective area. On dark suits, shine is especially visible and difficult to reverse.

Iron on a medium heat setting. Use steam from the iron for stubborn wrinkles. Press, do not slide. Lift the iron and set it down rather than dragging it across the fabric. This prevents stretching and distortion.

For trouser creases, align the seams of the trouser leg, lay flat, place a damp pressing cloth over the crease line, and press firmly. The moisture from the cloth creates a sharper crease than dry ironing.

Wrinkle Prevention

Most wrinkles in suits come from three sources: sitting for extended periods, wearing a bag strap over the shoulder, and poor storage. You cannot eliminate sitting, but you can manage its effects.

 Before sitting, unbutton the jacket and pull it slightly back so the fabric is not bunched across the chest. If you will be seated for a long period (a flight, a conference), consider removing the jacket entirely and hanging it or folding it carefully.

When you must fold a suit jacket (for travel), turn it inside out. This protects the outer fabric from creasing and places the fold stress on the lining, which is more forgiving. Lay the jacket flat, fold one shoulder into the other, and fold the jacket in half lengthwise. Place it on top of your luggage, not buried underneath.

Seasonal Storage

If you have suits you do not wear year-round, proper seasonal storage prevents moth damage, dust buildup, and mustiness.

 Clean before storing. Body oils and perspiration residue attract moths and cause fabric deterioration during long storage. Have the suit professionally cleaned before putting it away.

Use a breathable garment bag. A cotton canvas garment bag protects against dust and light while allowing air circulation. Never use the plastic bags from the dry cleaner for long-term storage. Plastic traps moisture and accelerates yellowing.

Hang on a proper hanger. Even in storage, the suit should hang on a wide, contoured hanger that supports the shoulders.

Add cedar. Place cedar blocks or rings near stored suits to deter moths. Sand the cedar lightly once a year to refresh the aromatic oils.

Store in a cool, dark, dry location. A bedroom closet is ideal. Avoid attics, basements, and garages.

Check monthly. A quick visual inspection catches moth damage, mildew, or other issues before they become serious.

Common Problems and Solutions 

Shine

Shine on suit fabric is caused by compressed, flattened fibers. To reduce shine, hang the suit in a steamy bathroom for 15 minutes. The steam lifts the fibers and reduces the polished appearance. For stubborn shine, press the affected area through a damp cloth with a hot iron and then brush with a clothes brush to lift the nap. Prevention is better than treatment: always use a pressing cloth when ironing.

Pilling

Wool suits pill in areas of friction: the inner thighs of trousers, the sides of the jacket where your arms rub, and under a bag strap. Remove pills with a fabric shaver or cashmere comb. To slow pilling, reduce friction sources where possible and brush the suit regularly.

Moth Holes

Small holes in wool suit fabric are almost always moth damage. If you find them, inspect the rest of the suit and any nearby garments. Wash or clean everything in the affected area. Place pheromone moth traps as monitors. For visible holes in a valuable suit, a skilled tailor can perform invisible mending (also called French weaving) that repairs the hole by reweaving matching threads into the fabric.

Lost Shape

A suit that has lost its shape in the shoulders or chest may need professional pressing by a tailor, not a dry cleaner. Tailors use specialized pressing equipment and techniques that can reshape the internal structure of a jacket. If the shape loss is due to a damaged canvas or interfacing, a more significant reconstruction may be needed.

Travel

Traveling with a suit requires care to prevent wrinkles and damage.

•       Use a garment bag. A dedicated suit garment bag for travel, not a general luggage bag, is the best investment for frequent travelers.

•       Fold the jacket inside out along the shoulders. This protects the outer fabric and places creases on the lining.

•       Roll trousers loosely rather than folding them. Rolling creates softer, easier-to-remove wrinkles.

•       Unpack immediately on arrival and hang the suit in the bathroom while you shower. The steam from the shower relaxes travel wrinkles.

•       A travel-size garment steamer is worth packing if you travel with suits regularly.

Building a Relationship with Your Tailor

A good tailor is as important to suit care as a good dry cleaner. Tailors handle alterations, repairs, pressing, and can advise you on the specific care needs of your suits based on their construction and fabric.

Find a tailor who works with suits regularly, not just a general alterations shop. A suit specialist understands canvassed versus fused construction, can perform invisible mending, and knows how to press a jacket without creating shine. Ask for recommendations from a menswear retailer or search for tailors who advertise bespoke or made-to-measure services, as they typically have the most relevant skills.

A suit is a relationship garment. The more consistently it is cared for by the same tailor and cleaner, the better it ages.